The Flavors of
Pennsylvania
Published in August 2006 in CamperWays
Vacation time is the right time to
relax and reward yourself by experiencing delectable
Pennsylvania Dutch treats.
By Bob Difley
More than 40 years have faded into the fuzzy, deep recesses
of my memory since I took William Graham Sumner's advice ("Go
west, young man!") and left my birth home in Pennsylvania for
the lure of the West Coast.
But the tantalizing brown sugar and molasses in sweet shoofly
pie and the pungent aromas of Amish relishes draw me back to
the old stomping grounds for another taste tour of the Keystone
State.
Shoofly Pie Dinah Shore immortalized
that gooey sweet Pennsylvania Dutch dessert in her 1946 hit
song, Shoo Fly Pie and Apple Pan Dowdy. For those who hadn't
yet discovered the joys of Pennsylvania Dutch and Amish
cooking, new gastronomical delights began to find their way
onto American tables. (It's said that the pie got its name
since it was typically set on the window sill to cool, where it
would attract flies, which cooks constantly had to shoo
away.)
Incidentally, "Dutch", in this case, comes from the German word
for "German" ("Deutsch"). Settlers of German descent brought us
this irresistible comfort food.
Feinschmeckers Unite
For "feinschmeckers" (those who know what good is), the joy of
RV touring and experiencing the flavors of Pennsylvania is in discovering family–style
restaurants – many of which serve the traditional foods –
and visiting local farmers' markets.
Select from their fresh–from–the–earth produce, farm–made Amish
Swiss, super–sharp white cheddar and horseradish cheeses,
succulent smoked hams, Lebanon and sweet bologna, sausages,
apple butter, pickles, breads, pastries and jellies, relishes
and old–fashioned candies.
To see how many of the jams and relishes are made, visit the
Jam & Relish Kitchen in Kitchen Kettle Village (on Old
Philadelphia Pike, in the town of Intercourse), where they
create more than 60 varieties of jams, relishes, dressings and
barbecue sauces right before your eyes.
Countryside Cravings
Venture out of the urban areas to wander the many rural
two–lane roads through scenic countryside, watching for
roadside stands as you drive past neat–and–tidy farms.
Pick from the freshest produce, eggs collected each morning,
farm–smoked meats and fruit right off of the tree. Many of
these stands also offer homemade birdhouses or mailboxes,
aprons or crocheted doilies, among other craft items.
The early Germanic settlers in Pennsylvania were a frugal,
hardworking people. They produced nearly everything they needed
on their farms, buying only salt and a few spices from outside.
Dough in many forms served as a staple of farm life, yielding
bread and rolls, sweets like sticky buns, pie crusts`` and
noodles. Folks made dumplings to be used in soups, meat and
vegetable dishes, and desserts like berry and rhubarb
dumplings.
Potatoes, another staple, were also used in many ways, and
frequently eaten at all three meals of the day, from hash
browns for breakfast, to mashed or boiled potatoes for supper.
The settlers devised ingenious methods of preserving food
through smoking, drying and pickling, and also made frequent
use of dried fruits.
Traditional Recipes
It was from this style of "waste not, want not" living
that many of these traditional recipes grew and became an
integral part of farm life. The cooking was hearty but not
fancy (my mother always said, "It sticks to your ribs"), and
the family–style serving guaranteed enough food for everyone …
even the frequent drop–in visitor.
Pennsylvania Dutch cooking often reflected the "seven sweets
and seven sours" so popular with German immigrants, featuring
sweets like apple butter, spiced cantaloupe, cinnamon apples,
ginger pears and various spiced fruits. Sours included
cabbage–filled peppers, bean–and–corn salad, chow chow, pickled
and red–beet eggs (my mouth waters just thinking of them), as
well as pickled mushrooms, cucumbers and beets.
Luscious Leftovers
Leftovers never saw a garbage can, but were recycled as a
different dish or recipe. For example, a leftover roast was
shredded and spread over the bottom of a baking dish covered
with leftover mashed potatoes, then baked for an hour at 350 F
for the popular shepherd's pie. The modern version uses
hamburger and freshly made mashed potatoes rather than
leftovers.
Scrapple, a traditional farm staple breakfast, was a by–product
of the waste–nothing farm kitchen. Scrap or leftover meats were
mixed with meal (buckwheat flour, barley or cornmeal) and
spices, formed into thin, flat cakes, and fried. It has the
flavor of pork sausage, the crispness of bacon, and you don't
want to know about the calories or grams of fat. You can't find
scrapple any more too far from its roots; the market is small
and it is costly to make, so its availability has gradually
begun to dwindle. Look for it in specialty stores as well as
more traditional, country–kitchen restaurants.
Fun with Fritters
You will find fritters just about everywhere in the state. To a
basic batter of flour, eggs, milk and butter, add corn for corn
fritters, clams for clam fritters, goose liver for
pâté–de–fois–gras fritters (just kidding), spices and so on.
You mold this mixture into flat, round cakes and sauté them in
oil to a golden brown.
And we shouldn't forget chicken pot pie (meat or fowl and
potatoes in a dough pie, cooked in a kettle on top of the
stove, not in the oven), sauerkraut (pickled cabbage), chicken
corn soup, schnitz and knepp (also called apples and buttons –
the schnitz are dried apples, the buttons are dumplings –
combined with ham, onions and potatoes in one pot).
Pennsylvania Pretzel Logic
Universally popular Pennsylvania pretzels were born at Lititz,
the home of the Sturgis Pretzel Factory, when according to
legend, a hobo stepped off a train in 1850 a half–block from
Julius Sturgis' bread bakery.
Looking for work as well as something to eat, the hobo followed
his nose, and though Julius couldn't offer the hobo any work,
he invited him to share a meal with his family. In gratitude
for his generosity, the hobo gave Julius the pretzel recipe.
By 1861 his pretzels were selling so well that he ceased all
other baking operations and became the very first commercial
pretzel baker in America. Now, you can find hard pretzels all
across the nation (I am seldom without the pretzels I have
enjoyed since I was knee–high to a grasshopper). Try eating
them with mustard, or as my favorite: spread with peanut butter
and topped with a slice of cheese.
Did You Say Dessert?
No Pennsylvania Dutch meal is complete without dessert, and the
cooks excelled at making cakes, cookies, custards and pies,
which were baked every day of the week. In summer, they used
fresh fruits and berries, apples in the fall, and dried–fruit
and shoofly pies in winter.
Pennsylvania Dutch Flavors will be celebrated all during 2006
in Flavorfest events and tours. Visit the Pennsylvania Dutch
Country website or see the end of this article for more
information.
Foods of the Coal Regions
"Coal crackers" came from all parts of the world to both
eastern and western coal regions of Pennsylvania, bringing with
them many traditional foods. Some of the recipes remained
traditional while others mixed and mingled.
The popular Polish halupkies, "galumpkies" or "blind pigeons"
are cabbage rolls stuffed with meats, rice, onions and spices.
Bleenies – fried potato pancakes – are often served at
festivals and church bazaars.
As you wander around, you will find many more delicacies than
those mentioned here. Be brave … try them.
When you find dishes you like, copy the recipes or ingredients
and try reproducing them at home or in the campground. I'm sure
you will find plenty of willing tasters around your campsite
once they catch a whiff of what's on the wind.
For a listing of campgrounds around the area, consult your 2006
Woodall's North American Campground Directory.
For More Information
Pennsylvania Dutch Visitors & Convention Bureau
www.padutchcountry.com/flavorfest.html
(800) PA Dutch
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